Restoring these cars would be similar to filling in the cracks of the liberty bell. Hemi Cuda produced fewer than 800 vehicles in 19, meaning they’re valuable when maintained. Old isn’t necessarily “bad,” as there is beauty in age. For example, the wear on the first Grand National Roadster Show Mack Model T that sits in a museum in Boyertown, PA, would be ruined by a fresh coat of paint. Their history is like a time capsule that transports us back to another age, and by altering its appearance, we lose that ability to see what those days brought. Here are some examples of historical cars that have been left alone and skyrocketed in value: Preserving specific automobiles does more than just keep their value intact, it preserves a piece of time that otherwise doesn’t exist anymore. Why? As was mentioned above, vehicles are sometimes more valuable when they’re left alone, and you should think twice or ask an expert before considering a paint job on your classic rig. While some of you may disagree, which is what makes this industry so fun because we all have differing opinions on these topics, there are situations where patina IS the better option. Some cars, especially ones with low miles, and low production muscle cars are better left alone. Drastically reducing the value of a car will only occur when you have an extremely rare car, but in the case of the 1969 Hellcat Charger Restomod, the value can skyrocket.Ī nice paint job will increase the value if you document the process with photos. One example of that is a ’70s era El Camino that’s tastefully lettered – it attracts attention. Generally speaking, a nice coat of paint and bodywork will increase the value of a car and make the public take notice. Sure, that shiny hunk of metal outside glowing under the natural sunlight looks pretty sweet, especially when the sun starts setting and you can see it for all its glory, but is it possible that restoring that rust bucket actually kills the value? Well, that all depends on the application, according to Mr. While it all comes down to a matter of personal preference, sometimes we might wonder which adds more value. Using some wax will also slow down the rust but retain the shiny metal look.One of the age old questions when it comes to car restoration is paint versus patina, and with the guidance of Ted Swan, painting specialist with Summit Racing, we hope to settle that debate today. It's just a matter of regularly polishing the metal to prevent it from rusting. I've done it on my own classic cars that had thin paint. Here's the deal, if you want to maintain the ORIGINAL PATINA then you can rub that rust off and make the metal shiny and the paint pretty and then by regular polishing and waxing you can keep the paint looking great and the metal looking shiny. The foam and the compound will gently abrade off the rust. I'd also consider buffing the rusted areas by machine, like by using a foam cutting pad with a compound. Put most of your focus on the rusty portions as you don't want to rub and rub and rub on the painted areas needlessly as the paint will restore faster than the rusted metal will clean up. Mikes comments: “I went ahead and used the #7 liberally with a terrycloth wash cloth and a lot of elbow grease and let the oils in the #7 lubricate the rubbing process and let the nap of the terrycloth be my abrasive and with enough rubbing you can remove the rust and make the steel that is now exposed with no paint SHINY and restore the color to what's left of the paint.Also what wax is recommended to use in this type of application? I’m thinking the rusted areas would be tough to wax and not leave a residue of some sortĪnother mention of buffing/polishing the rust spots:.How and with what would you buff the steel sections?.Would you compound and polish with a machine or by hand?.Mike mentions his process taken before on these paint types has been : “When I've buffed rigs like this out I compound them and polish and wax the good paint and then buff the steel sections enough to make them shiny and then keep on buffing it once in a while and waxing it to prevent rust.”.This is the only thread on the forum that addresses my question with a similar situation.Would buff/polishing by hand be safest method? Or could I use the DA carefully with this method?.Again – the paint on this mustang was pretty consistent all over with no large rust areas.All the products used on this car would be would I would use on the truck if going this route.But this paint is uniform and without rust in areas, so I know it would work on the painted parts but not sure effects on the rust and primer areas.Great breakdown on precleaning the paint.I’ll link each thread and my thoughts as well: Now to do that I have been doing my research but honestly just collecting more and more data without a plan of implementation for my scenario As Mike states - I want to take what paint I have left to the Max :
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